Quote: Also, does anyone know what the X means in the serial number above? From the link provided, there doesn't seem to be an 'X' code for this year model?

You are correct - it was made in 1971. I think the 'X' means it is a Magnum Twenty - I know 'Z' was the Light Twenty (similar to the 'M' and 'G' for 12 gauges listed on the Browning website above).

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Edit to add: I shoot the heck out of my 1976 A5 Light Twelve, and I'd LOVE that 20 - you've got a heck of a piece of history there. I originally opened this thread really hoping you were selling. [This message has been edited by Ark03 (edited 2/25/2013 11:49a).]. Quote: One more question. The gun is marked for a 3' shell but can these guns normally shoot a 2 3/4' or should I stick to the 3?

Not sure if it is historically a problem with this one. You can shoot 2-3/4' all day long in it. Just make sure you visit the website above and ensure the friction ring is in the proper configuration for the load you are shooting. I would treat all high brass, regardless of length, the same with respect to how you set up the friction ring.

Browning Semi-Automatic Five Shotgun (A-5). Production began at serial number 1 in 1902. Prior to 1924, few. 1601, Magnum 20 Gauge. 2301, Light 20. From 1958 serial numbers were preceded by the date of manufacture. 8M=standard weight for 1958. 8G=light weight for 1958. Auto-5 Type: 151=Magnum 12 gauge 161=Magnum 20 gauge 211=Light 12 gauge 221=Sweet 16 231=Light 20 gauge: 2. Date of Manufacture. To commemorate this historic event for the Auto-5, Browning released the 'Final Tribute.

Same with light/skeet/target loads in both sizes. If you notice there are issues with ejection, swap the configuration and see how it works. I've personally never had an issue with different loads operating or not operating on my 20 gauge, but that gun was built in 1918 or so and has had about a half million rounds pushed through it, so it's well broken in. My 12 gauge didn't have any issues with some skeet loads, but I had it set up specifically for the lighter recoiling loads. Not sure on the Brownings, but on the Remingtons the barrel choke is stamped near the chamber on the underside of the barrel. You need to remove the forearm to find it.

Both of mine are full chokes, and reaching out to 60 yards with the 20 gauge isn't unheard of. In fact, a childhood friend of my grandfather downed a goose with it at 90 yards (+/-) - a single pellet hit the elbow in the wing.

Lucky as hell on the shot. I was young and dumb once and fired a slug through it - and my shoulder paid the price. The poster above that mentioned tight chokes is 100% correct.

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